Colors of spring in the Vikos Gorge, a walker’s treat

By Christina Sanoudou
Walking down the cobblestone path leading out of the village of Vikos in the Pindus Mountains of Epirus, I couldn’t wait to reach the banks of the river that I could see sparkling in the distance through the trees and which I believed to run the entire length of the Vikos Gorge. When I reached the entrance to the gorge, the site was stunning: At right, smooth white boulders stood sentry over a dry riverbed, but at left, a narrow fissure through the rocks led to a surging torrent that appeared to come from the bowels of the Earth.
I later learned that there are two rivers in the Vikos Gorge, one of which -- the one on the right -- is formed by snow melting on the surrounding mountaintops. According to a pair of hikers I met during my recent visit, however, the complete absence of water this early in spring must mean human intervention. This river runs past the bottom of the village of Vikos and into the main Voidomatis River, which has crystal-clear waters than never get any warmer than 9 degrees Celsius (48.2F).
The Vikos Gorge may be best known for the colors of its foliage in autumn, but the area in springtime has nothing to envy as the view of nature’s rebirth is no less stunning: The shoots of vegetation bursting up from the ground in an orgy of aromas and colors, every green hue in the spectrum is represented and trees shimmer with shiny new leaves as the wild flowers draw the buzz of colorful insects.
I walked along the gorge for around three hours, following a very well-signposted path running beside the dry river through vibrant woodland and sunny clearings, observing the steep mountain ridges and strange limestone formations that date back several million years, scaring lizards and frogs, birds and other species of fauna that live there.
Along the way I met a number of other groups and individuals on a walk or hiking, many coming from overseas and others appearing well acquainted with the area.
Some 10 kilometers south of the village of Vikos, the gorge splits into two. The right section is known locally as Vikaki (or small Vikos) and stretches to the village of Monodendri, while the left fork leads to the slopes of Mount Tymphi, also worth exploring. Just before Tymphi’s highest peak, known as Gamila (or camel), at an altitude of 2,000 meters, is Drakolimni (or Dragon Lake), a well-known lake and home of the tiny alpine newt. By the end of April the ice on the lake will have melted, though the surrounding area may still have some snow.